Guinness and Fiddles

I must admit, Dublin wasn't on my "must visit" list when we moved to Europe. But when I found out discount airline Ryan Air is based in Dublin, I decided we had to go. We chose to skip Carnaval in Limburg (a controversial decision) in favor of a long weekend in Dublin, before the summer crowds and prices hit. Did it rain? Yes, a bit. Were there partying students? Yes, they just added to the charm. We'll definitely be back, and it will be a longer visit so we can see more of the country next time.

Five outstanding reasons to visit Dublin:

Photo: Em' Milie

They say that Guinness tastes better in Dublin than anywhere else. More Guinness stout is produced here than anywhere else in the world, including every pint consumed in America. Having enjoyed it on two continents, I can affirm that it tastes good, no matter where you are.

Photo: munksynz

The Book of Kells is neither a book, nor is it from Kells. But it is a cultural gem and Trinity College's Old Library is a lovely setting. Don't forget to go upstairs and check out Ireland's oldest harp.

Photo: Éole 

Speaking of harps, Dublin is a great place to experience traditional Irish music. To learn a bit about it, we joined a musical pub crawl our first night there, and the next night visited a pub recommended by the musicians (it turned out to be right around the corner from our hotel). The music was amazing, probably because the musicians were playing solely for their own enjoyment.

Photo: Fergal of Claddagh

Dublin is crammed with history and the architecture is varied and delightful. We enjoyed old churches (St. Michan's hosts a slightly creepy crypt tour complete with mummies you can touch), parks such as St. Stephen's Green and Merrion Square, and charming Georgian terrace houses.

Dublin's best treasure is Dubliners. People were very willing to encounter us, and invariably friendly, gracious and welcoming.

Photo: me!

We were standing in front of this pub Monday morning, looking at a plaque. A man came out of the pub and asked if we were James Joyce admirers; we told him we were following the Ulysses walk. He told us the pub didn't open until 11, apologized, and invited us in for a look around. Which we did (we now feel as though we must read Ulysses, but that's another story ...)


Still not sure Dublin is for you? Check out this video:

Hooray for Hollywood

I must admit I'm not a big fan of American movies and television. But living in Europe has taught me gratitude for the American entertainment industry. Partly because of the apparently universal appeal of blockbuster action films and reality television, people all over the world are entirely familiar with my language. And that's good, because being American, I am a monoglot. Meaning, if you speak English, we can talk. And if not, not.*

Thanks to the ability and willingness of others to speak my language, I've been able to chat about shoes with an Austrian couple in a monastery beer garden in Salzburg

Bräustübl Tavern in Mülln

and talk about tandem bicycling touring along the Rhine river with a friendly German couple

I was even able to give these folks directions!

and get tips for where to stay in the Moselle river valley from a Belgian beer brewer in one of Limburg's best pubs.

Our semi-local pub, the Hertog Jan brewery tasting room in Arcen

So thank you Warner Brothers, United Artists, and all the other media companies who have enriched my life. Even though I don't want what you're selling, I sure am enjoying the byproduct.

*I'm working on this, but at my age, it's uphill all the way.

Ride Across the Netherlands, Day 2

Bedankt, Mireille, for this wonderful ontbijt!

After an amazing breakfast in our little caravan, we rode to the dunes national park on the west side of Texel, then to the ferry back to the mainland. In Den Helder we visited the Dutch Navy Museum where among other things we toured a cold war era submarine and a 19th century ironclad ship.

Then we had a tough ride along the seawall, about 8km with a very strong headwind. After that the wind was not so bad. We rode through more dunes along the west coast, then turned inland through some beautiful, wild farmland. We saw many houseboats along the canals in that area, several windmills, and lots of thatched houses, including a new house being thatched. Then through some woods until we came to the long-distance route 7, the "Overland Route" which we'll be following the remainder of our trip.

Start of LF7

Our ride for the day ended in Alkmaar. We had time for a quick visit to a beer museum, and a pause for refreshment in the basement pub. Our hosts for the night, courtesy of Vrienden op de Fiets, are a very nice couple with a beautiful home. 

Our Vrienden in Alkmaar had a peaceful view of the canal 

We showered and went out for dinner at a Scottish restaurant, where we enjoyed a new beer, Hielander Porter, custom brewed for the restaurant. More Belgian than British, but still very good. It was a warm evening so we made good use of the late sunset by taking ourselves on a self-guided walking tour of the town. Alkmaar is beautiful, kind of like a little Amsterdam, which we'll cycle through tomorrow.

For the truly curious, here is a link to a map of our route this day (the first real riding day of our birthday trip).